“…But it was with the Small Plates that the adventure really got going. I am a massive fan of pipirrana con pulpo, the Spanish tapas so often served in the tiny bars around Malaga port. But Flora Indica’s Pickled Octopus with chilli tempura samphire and squid ink doi maach sauce (£9) is from a different planet. It was the softest, most delicate, most beautifully presented octopus dish I have ever tasted. This was followed in quick succession by a wave of Small Dishes almost too numerous to name. Bright Malwani Prawns with yellow tomato chutney and black mooli (£7.50) vied for attention with the most delicate you can imagine Suffolk Lamb Chop Tandoori with garam masala and
yoghurt mint sauce (£9.50). Seviya Chicken Wings bristled with charred cipolini onion, ready to be dipped in a tangy spring onion accompaniment (£7) while Jerusalem Artichokes Papdi Chaat mixed lasciviously with tamarind and yoghurt (£7). Spiced Pulled Duck Cheela with coconut chutney and red amaranth (£9) only just made way for the gentle crunch of Amritsara Softshell Crab with tadka mayonnaise and tamarind King Edward potatoes (£8.50). This would have been way to too much for me had my family not arrived to join in the feast. It could also have
been too much altogether – an assault on our palates. But this is what puts Flora Indica into that tiny category of restaurants that achieve the near impossible: Each flavor exists in perfect isolation. They are experienced exclusively from the plate in front of you. Yet each new dish is complimented by the last in a chain of delight stretching from one end of the menu to the other. It is frankly mind-boggling.”
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